Denali/Mount McKinley: Summit of North America (Rucksack Pocket Summits)
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Product Description
At 6194 m (20,320 ft) Denali (Mt McKinley) is the highest mountain in North America. Its arctic latitude makes for extreme weather conditions and its remote location in the Alaskan wilderness means that climbing teams must be self-reliant and experienced. The author focuses on the West Buttress route used by 80-90 per cent of climbers. The book includes concise advice about preparation and planning; medical advice on how to prevent and manage altitude sickness; practical tips on load-carrying, glacier travel and camping; and a 3-panel fold-out map showing the West Buttress route. The book is in full colour, with over 60 photographs, and the format is waterproof, pocket sized (105X145 mm) and in 96 pages.
Spotlight Customer Reviews:
Summary:
Good, Concise Guide To Denali
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Comment:
I have been on Denali twice with self-guided expeditions, each time with a copy of Colby Comb's West Buttress guide book in hand. Since then, Harry Kikstra has published a series of concise climbing guides which have just enough information in a small, compact package. This is a book that truly can and should be included in the backpack or sled, and Mr. Kikstra is to be commended for his effort.
Kikstra provides detail where it is important...his description of the West Buttress route is superior and detailed. I appreciate that Kikstra--a European--provides altitudes and distance in feet and miles, not just meters and kilometers.
Denali's is a most dangerous mountain because it is readily assessible by airplane, and the West Buttress has a misinformed reputation as being a "walk-up" by climbers who fancy themselves "cutting edge". It often is crowded with climbers who may or may not have good climbing expertise and judgement. Further, as one of the "7-Summits", many are motivated to climb this mountain but don't put adequate preparation and training into doing so. The first time I went to Denali--in June, 2004--a climber descending the route with a guided expedition was killed at Windy Corner because of rockfall; another was seriously injured. Crevasse falls are common--two of my ropemates experienced crevasse falls in June, 2006 and frankly both are lucky to be alive. Also in June, 2006, our team arrived in Talketna as rescue parties were wrapping up their search for sponsored climbers Sue Nott and Karen McNeill, who disappeared on Mt. Foraker earlier that season. This region and this climb is not for the faint of heart.
I would have appreciated more information on how to rig those blasted kiddy sleds which Denali climbers use to transport their approximately 100+ pounds of food/equipment up the route. Such sleds typically aren't used for most other mountains, particularly those outside the Arctic. Also, greater exploration of the merits of randonee skis over snowshoes would be of great benefit for the first-time climber on this very ski-friendly route. (A skier can skin up the West Buttress much faster and comfortably than a climber on snowshoes...not to mention the descent.)
Bottom line is this...don't attempt this mountain unless you humbly acknowledge your own limitations, are serious about taking your time and acclimating, and follow the very good advise given in Kikstra's guide. Happy climbing...
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Summary:
Bigger than the size
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Comment:
Small enough to bring in a stuffed backpack, this excellent guide will make you travel along the trail to the top of Denali before even taking the plane. Perfect to plan your trip, everything is in it: gear check, clear maps, day-by-day detailed itinary, breathtaking pictures...
Since i bought this book in the first time, i ordered some to all my expedition partners as gifts...!
I never saw a guide like this one!
ML
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Summary:
Contents and reviews of Denali, Summit of North America pocket guide
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Comment:
First of all, I am the author, so the 5 stars might be a bit subjective :)
As the information above does not say anything about the book itself and it appears nearly impossible to update that info, I though I'd tell a bit more about the book here, so you can decide if this is useful for you.
At 6194 m (20,320 ft) Denali (Mt McKinley) is the highest mountain in North America. Its arctic latitude makes for extreme weather conditions and its remote location in the Alaskan wilderness means that climbing teams must be self-reliant and experienced. The book focuses on the West Buttress route used by 80-90% of climbers.
The pocket-sized guidebook provides all you need to plan and enjoy your summit attempt:
* concise advice about preparation and planning
* how to prevent and manage altitude sickness
* practical tips on load-carrying and, glacier travel and camping
* an extensive gearlist and advice on the use of sleds
* fold-out map showing the West Buttress route
* step-by-step description of the route and campsites
* 96 waterproof pages with open-flat binding
* in full colour, with over 60 photographs, some of them full page.
It is the same size as the Aconcagua pocket guide and fits in most pockets, being only 115grams/4oz and 14.5 x 11.5 x 0.8cm in size (5.7 x 4.5 x 0.3 inch). It can handle the snow you will meet on Denali without weakening the pages.
We had some knowledgeable people proofread the book, here are their reactions:
*** Reviewed by seven-summiteer Jake Meyer ***
This is the ultimate `bible' dedicated to climbing McKinley. What a pleasure to read an up-to-date, comprehensive guidebook for climbing in one of the most beautiful yet inhospitable environments on Earth. The wonderful pictures remind me of the awe-inspiring scale of the Alaska Range and a memorable expedition. It's informative, enjoyable and beautifully presented, and should be top of every Denali adventurer's kit list, to accompany them every step of the way.
The format is snowproof, windproof and probably climberproof. In the military, we use TAMs (Tactical Aide Memoires) to cope with every imaginable situation, and Harry's book is the ultimate TAM for climbing Denali. Whether it guides you to the summit, or merely adds to the library of the armchair adventurer, this book is an essential part of the team.
-- Jake Meyer, who in 2005 became the youngest man to complete the '7 summits'.
*** Reviewed by Daryl R Miller, Denali Park Ranger
"This book contains lots of good information and advice and it'll help you prepare for your expedition. But to climb Denali you also need patience and hunility"
-- Daryl R Miller, South District Ranger, Denali National Park & Preserve
Mr Miller is absolutely correct, do not underestimate this beautiful mountain. Thanks for your attention, hope this guide will make your climb safer, more enjoyable and more successful.
As always: Keep climbing, but be safe.
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